Sirbaz Khan became first Pakistani to summit all of the world’s 14 highest (about 8,000 meters) peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. Sirbaz Khan, a Pakistani mountaineer who hails from Hunza Valley, made history by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters) on Sunday, 18th May 2025, completing his year-long campaign across the world’s highest and most dangerous mountains.
Moreover, he had previously climbed all 14 peaks by 2024 but two of these ascents were done by using bottled oxygen. In April 2025, he re-climbed Annapurna (8,091 meters) and then Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters), both without using artificial oxygen to achieve the feat under pure alpine style.
Now, Sirbaz Khan is among approximately 70 climbers around the world who have successfully reached the summit of all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. Notably, less than 25 of these climbers have achieved this feat without using supplemental oxygen, which is considered a particularly challenging feat given the low oxygen levels in the “Death Zone.”
He started his journey in 2017 by successfully climbing the Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters). The following year, in 2018, he climbed K2 (8,611 meters). In 2019, Sirbaz became first Pakistani to summit Lhotse (8,516 meters) and also climbed Broad Peak (8,051 meters) without supplemental oxygen same year.
In the following year, Sirbaz Khan scaled Manaslu (8,163 meters), Annapurna (8,091 meters), Everest (8,848 meters), Gasherbrum I (8,080 meters) and II (8,035 meters), Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters), Makalu(8,485 meters), Cho Oyu (8,188 meters)and Shinshapangma (8,027 meters) without the use of supplemental oxygen and is first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
